Purgatory Area

The southern leg of the Million Dollar Highway traverses several magnificent landscapes between the heights of Coal Bank Pass and the lazy flats of Durango's Animas Valley.  Paralleling this segment of the road for many miles are the colorful Hermosa Cliffs, which rise up 2000 feet immediately west.  The area around Purgatory Ski Mountain, in particular, hides an unlikely concentration of mid-elevation lakes on a bench of lumpy terrain between the base of the cliffs and the Animas River Gorge.  Not all of the lakes in this area are open to public use, but the ones that are have some great paddleboarding waters with especially photogenic surroundings.   

Beautiful Potato Lake

Haviland Lake

Haviland Lake sits at the foot of the Hermosa Cliffs, right about at their midpoint.  It is accessed from County Road 671, about 8.5 miles north of Hermosa or 9 miles south of Purgatory on U.S. 550.  The lake is 0.8 miles east of U.S. 550. and has roadside parking with shore access.  Haviland is a wake-free and sees very little variation in water level. 

Vicinity Map: Haviland & Electra

    Location Info: [key]

    Haviland Lake

    Scenery: 4
    Shoreline Interest: 3
    Use: Moderate
    Fee: SWA Pass required
    Access: Gravel
    Full elev = 8106; natural
    Rec info 
    Rec map 
    Weather 

Nearly all of Haviland Lake lies within a State Wildlife Area boundary.  A valid Colorado hunting or fishing license, or an SWA Pass is required to access or recreate in this site.  An SWA Pass is different than a state parks pass.  The fees collected from SWA Passes, as well as from hunting and fishing licenses, are used by the state for maintenance and acquisition of parcels such as Haviland Lake to reserve for wildlife, hunters and anglers without the added recreational pressure that is commonly seen by state parks.  A campground adjacent to Haviland Lake on the east is managed by the U.S. Forest Service and does not require an SWA Pass or sporting license.  

Haviland Lake; Hermosa Cliffs beyond

Electra Lake

Less than a mile north of Haviland Lake is Electra Lake.  Electra is privately operated by the Electra Sporting Club but is open to public use during the summertime.  To protect the lake from potential infestation by aquatic invasive species (such as zebra and quagga mussels), all watercraft are required to undergo an inspection and washdown before entering the water.  This includes hand-powered craft such as paddleboards and kayaks.  Please review the rules, regulations and launch protocols carefully before visit this private but impressive lake.  

Electra Lake & Hermosa Cliffs from the north

    Location Info: [key]

    

    Electra Lake:

    Scenery: 4
    Shoreline Interest: 4
    Use: Low-moderate
    Season: memorial day - 10/31
    AIS inspection/wash required
    Fee: $6/paddle craft + $6 AIS
    Access: Gravel
    Full elev = 8320; best near full
    Rec info
    Rec map
    Weather 

Electra Lake is largely hidden from U.S. 550 but is surprisingly expansive.  It is nearly 3 miles long from north to south and contains quite a few islands, both large and small.  The lake is open to motorized use, with waterskiing permitted in the southern half.  For this reason, it's probably best to sneak over to the east shore of the lake or north of the big island to find the calmest paddling waters.  All watercraft must be launched from the boat ramp, at the southeast corner of the lake.  Exploring the forested, steep-sided bays at the north end of the lake requires a sufficiently large time and weather window to paddle the 3-mile length of the lake each way.  

Potato Lake

Potato Lake

Potato Lake is nestled at a the foot of the West Needle Mountains in one of the most ldyllic locations in Colorado.  Getting to Potato Lake requires traveling a rough road and a gentle trail hike but it is worth the effort.  The first part--Lime Creek Road--heads east from U.S. 550 just north of the sweeping 180 degree curve that crosses over Cascade Creek.  The junction is 2.3 miles north of Purgatory, at the bottom of Coal Bank Pass.  The Spud Lake Trailhead is 2.9 miles east on Lime Creek Road (County Road 591).  The first mile or so is improved gravel; then the road gets progressively rockier.  A moderate clearance 2WD vehicle may be able to negotiate the rougher stretches, but a high clearance vehicle is definitely advised.  

Vicinity Map: Potato & Lime Creek

    Location Info: [key]
    (Potato / Lime Creek Pond)

    Scenery: 5 / 3
    Shoreline Interest: 3 / 4
    Use: Low
    Fee: None
    Access: High clearance 2WD,

     + 1.2 mi. hike for Potato
    Full elev = 9800 / 9400
    Weather 

The hike to Potato Lake is pleasant and beautiful.  It follows the gently ascending Spud Lake Trail (presumably named as a synonym for potato) for 1.2 miles through a mixed aspen and conifer forest.  Because of the hike's length, it is probably easiest to pack in an inflatable board and pump to the lake and inflate on-site.  One option for a multi-person party is to bring one or two boards and switch off with paddle time.  The lake is also very pleasant from the shore!

Potato Lake has many attributes that contribute to its allure as a tranquil paddle spot.  The trail leads right to an easy launch spot on a gravelly shore.  From the middle of the lake, a dramatic and varied panorama wraps around in all directions.  To the north, modestly named Potato Hill towers 2000 feet above the water.  To the east, the Twilight Peaks form a jagged skyline on the opposite side of Lime Creek's deep gorge.  On the southwest, the lake is bounded by deep green spruce forest.  And the lake itself features earthy shallows, dark blue depths, lilies at the east end and grasses in the west.  Furthermore, there are scattered rocky perches around to lake's perimeter that offer unique perspectives down on the water and out to the surrounding mountains.  

Potato Lake

Lime Creek Roadside Pond

Lime Creek Roadside Pond

Across the road from the Spud Lake Trailhead is a shallow, lily-covered pond that looks out toward the southwest.  The pond doesn't appear to have an official name, but it can look like a very inviting place to spend an hour or two on a sunny day.  If carrying a paddleboard a mile to Potato Lake doesn't sound appealing, this is a great alternative.  The roadside pond is also a nice diversion if camping along Lime Creek Road.  Some great dispersed spots can be found on the western leg of the road; a forest service campground can be found 3.5 miles further after the road turns north and descends to the bottom of Lime Creek's gorge.  

Engineer Mountain Trail; Electra Lake beyond

Nearby Biking and Hiking

The unique pocket of Colorado around Purgatory Ski Mountain has plenty of trails to explore by hike or mountain bike.  The ski resort proper offers a great collection lift-service trails during summer season.  Most of these cater to gravity-assist biking, but there are hiking-specific and cross-country trails as well.  Check the resort's website for season, hours and pricing.  Purgatory resort also offers paddleboard rentals on Twilight Lake.

Engineer Mountain is one of Colorado's more stately-looking peaks.  It also features one of the finest mountain bike descents in Colorado!  The trail climb starts at the summit of Coal Bank pass and climbs Pass Creek Trail 2.5 miles to the gentle east shoulder of Engineer Mountain.  The ascent is about 1000 feet and tops out between the summit cone and the massive cliff that looms over Coal Bank Pass  The climb is punchy at times but well traveled and generally forgiving.  The descent starts out in lofty, open meadows and drops 5.5 miles on the Engineer Mountain Trail through the forested slopes below, occasionally flirting with the cliff edge.  Views from the overlooks are grand, and all of the lakes in the post can be picked out in the terrain below.  The ride finishes on a short spur road about 0.9 miles above the bottom of Coal Bank Pass.  This ride is best done as a shuttle a bypass climbing on U.S. 550.  The Pass Creek Trail is also a popular hiking route as well, as also quite rewarding.  An ascent of Engineer Mountain itself, however, is a more serious undertaking with a greater degree of hazard.  

Purgatory Bike Trails

Engineer Mountain Trail

Hermosa Creek Trail is (or was) another classic mountain bike ride in the Purgatory Area.  Unfortunately, the 416 Fire of 2018 heavily impacted much of its route.  The trail follows Hermosa Creek for 18.5 miles through the vast roadless area that extends westward behind the Hermosa Cliffs.  The ride is generally descending with a couple moderate climbs.   Like the Engineer Mountain Trail, Hermosa Creek is best done as a shuttle.  The beginning of the ride is at Upper Hermosa Creek Trailhead, 8.5 east of Purgatory on Hermosa Park Road (County Road 578).  The end of the ride is at Lower Hermosa Creek Trailhead, 4 miles east of Hermosa on County Road 576.  For those without a willing shuttle driver, the Jones-Pinkerton-Dutch loop is another good, fairly adventurous and rewarding ride to explore this area.  The loop starts and ends at Lower Hermosa Creek Trailhead and has the added bonus of traversing on top of the Hermosa Cliffs. 

Upper Hermosa Creek Trail

Weather and Safety Considerations 

Weather conditions in this part of Colorado can change quickly.  Afternoon thunderstorms are quite common in the summertime, and sometimes accompanied by strong winds or lightning.  Check the hourly forecast to get an idea of the day's time window for the best weather.  Black bears are also active in the area around Hermosa and Purgatory; consider carrying bear spray if hiking in the backcountry.  Have fun, stay safe and be bear-aware!