Lake Canyon is one of the many side canyons along Powell's 150-mile length. It is not the longest, deepest, twistiest, or most creatively-named. The attribute that makes Lake Canyon the subject of this blog post is its combination of relative accessibility with a classic Glen Canyon setting. The easiest and by far the most common way to reach Lake Canyon is by motorboat. But for aspiring paddlers without the equipment, time or resources to organize a boat trip here, Lake Canyon can be reached by a moderate but adventurous hike.
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| Lake Canyon's stunning south fork |
Specifics on the route to Lake Canyon are detailed further down in the post. But generally, it is 2 miles east of Halls Crossing on Utah State Highway 276. Route 276 accesses both the Halls Crossing Marina on the southeast side of Lake Powell and Bullfrog Marina on the northwest side, but there is no fixed connection between the two. Historically the Utah DOT operated a ferry across the lake, but lower water levels have left it largely out of service in recent years. If approaching from the northwest (Hanksville) side, it is necessary to follow Utah Route 95 past the north junction with 276 and across the Hite bridge to reach the southern 276 junction. From there it is 44 miles west to Glen Canyon NRA. Gas stations in this part of Utah are few, far between, and not always in service. It's a good idea to always have a full enough tank to make it back to Blanding or Green River.
Location Info: [key]
Scenery: 5
Shoreline Interest: 5
Use: Moderate
Fee: $30 or NPS pass
Access: Paved + 1.5 mi. off-trail hike
Full elev = 3700;
Shoreline Interest: 5
Use: Moderate
Fee: $30 or NPS pass
Access: Paved + 1.5 mi. off-trail hike
Full elev = 3700;
good at any water level
Rec. info
Weather
Rec. info
Weather
The Colorado River's journey across Utah crosses some of the most remote areas of the Lower 48 states. In fact, there are only 3 bridge crossings of the river in the entire state of Utah (4 if you count the bike path bridge in Moab). The most effective transportation corridor in the region might be the river channel itself, at least for recreational purposes. A motorboat or houseboat is the key to exploring Lake Powell's 120+ river-mile length and 1000+ miles of shoreline. In fact, the vast majority of Lake Powell can't logistically be reached any other way. But for anyone without a powerboat, a houseboat reservation, or the patience to organize a weeklong Lake Powell trip, a paddleboard experience in the heart of Glen Canyon's slickrock wonderland can be elusive.
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| Small Beach in Lake Canyon |
A handful of Lake Powell's side canyons can be reached by more modest means. Generally these places are near the three paved roads that access the lake: Utah Route 95 through Hite, Utah 276 near Bullfrog and Halls Crossing, and U.S. 89 near Page, AZ. Farley Canyon, near Hite, is one of Powell's treasures that is accessible by a short jeep road. Lake Canyon, near Halls, can by accessed on foot.
Geology: beneath Canyon Country's exotic personalities
Lake Canyon has a vastly different character than Farley and White Canyons, and the biggest reason is geology. The north end of Glen Canyon, near the Hite Bridge and Farley Canyon, cuts through the deep red Moenkopi formation. Other notable outcrops of the Moenkopi formation can be found at Fisher Towers east of Moab, or the Chimney Rock area of Capitol Reef.
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| strata legend (partial) |
Lake Canyon, on the other hand, is incised through Navajo Sandstone. The light-colored, rounded Navajo formation erodes uniquely into fins, domes and fissures. For context, the Navajo formation comprises the entirety of Moab's Slickrock Trail, and makes appearances at Poison Spider Mesa, Moab Rim and the Sand Rafael Reef. When inundated with lake waters, the Navajo sandstone creates the vertical-walled, winding side canyons that Lake Powell is renowned for.
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| Navajo Sandstone: meet Lake Powell |
Desert pathway: finding the sneak
The overland route to Lake Canyon is off-trail, obscure and remote. It is also easy to get off-track, and plenty of hazards lurk nearby. For these reasons, we were unsure if we even wanted to write a blog post about it. But it does, in fact, lead to an exceptionally stunning and secluded paddleboard setting.
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| A small beach |
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| Navajo Sandstone wall |
A vague, abandoned road provides convenient passage between Route 276 and the slickrock flanks of Lake Canyon. The abandoned road is on the south side of Utah 276, 6.7 miles west of the Glen Canyon Recreation Area monument sign and 2.3 miles east of Halls Crossing entrance station. It can be identified on aerial imagery but is difficult to pick out while driving on the road. Fortunately, there are a few carsonite posts and a motor vehicle closure to mark the spot. There is no formal parking area at the abandoned road, so it is necessary to park on the overgrown shoulder of the paved road. Be sure to leave a valid parks pass and an AIS certification form in the windshield per National Park Service and State of Utah recreational regulations.
The abandoned road is fairly easy to find and follow once on foot. Although the desert is flat here, it also contains some prickly vegetation for the first mile and the old road is an important passage through it. When the east (left) side of the road starts to drop off toward a bare, slickrock drainage, the off-trail part of the journey is near.
Slickrock off-trail: flat to rugged
After the old road peters out, the real adventure begins. The next step is to descend into the slickrock wash immediately east. The top rock stratum below the desert flats is ledgy, so it might take some poking around to find a safe way down. A decent line can be found from the peninsular point just north of the first wash that drops in from the west. There are also decent passages down to the wash if you lose the road before its end. This drainage is Lake Canyon's prominent North Wash.
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| View southward, down the wash on approach route |
Once down into the North Wash, the easiest route to the lake is to just climb back up the opposite side. Scroll to the next section for continuation of the route. A direct path down the wash may look inviting on a topographic map or on satellite imagery, but there are a few serious obstacles that are hazardous and may prove impassable. If a jaunt down the narrowing wash into a slot canyon sounds intriguing, be prepared to turn back when the route becomes difficult. As the rock fins and sandstone washes start to fall away toward the canyon, the landscape gets increasingly rugged and cliffy. It's not hard to find dangerous terrain if you get off course. Bring your sound judgement. If you find yourself in a difficult situation, it may be impossible to find help or for help to find you.
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| Sandstone fins near the lake (not the route) |
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| A narrowing slot between fins (not the route) |
Finding a path to the water
Ascending the east side of the North Wash is easiest to do sooner rather than later. It is not necessary to bee-line up the slope; a southward asceneding traverse is sufficient. The goal is to stay close to the top of the slickrock band, below the transition back to soil at the mesa top. After a third of a mile or so, the dirt-surfaced mesa top terminates and the slickrock wraps around a broad divide to the east. There may be a small cairn that mark where the route crosses the divide between the North Wash and Lake Canyon proper. There are less fins and fissures here compared to the terrain further west and travel across the slickrock becomes much more direct Once around the point (or past the cairn), the slickrock ramps down fairly gently toward the triple junction with the South Fork of Lake Canyon. The water surface finally comes into view and a path to it becomes more apparent.
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| Cairn marking divide on approach route; Lake Canyon beyond |
Depending on water level, there may be a nice beach and/or landing on the north (near) side of Lake Canyon, just west (right) of the triple junction. The bench emerges when the water level is in the 3570 to 3580 range, and may extend well below that. The slickrock rolls into dropoff above the broadest part of the bench, but a line around the ledge can be found by continuing past the bench toward its east end. The steepest stretch of the slope requires a little bit of care and deliberate movement, but shouldn't be anything too unnerving for anyone who has spent time hiking or biking on the grippy, Moab-esque slickrock.
Now the tricky part: getting ON the water
If you've pinpointed the start point of the route, negotiated the thorny desert, and navigated the undulating slickrock without drama, the next step might actually be the most challenging part of the excursion: getting onto the water! If the water level is within the extents of the bench, this task might be easy. If it's closer to 3600, it might be harder to find a level-ish place to set up and put in.
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| View of the bench at launch area (lower left); All photos were taken at water level of 3573 |
The smoothly sloping slickrock of Lake Powell invites a flurry of potential mishaps that may be comedic in retrospect but can be quite problematic in the moment. Below is a short list of possible surprises to be anticipated and avoided in the setup and launching process.
- Water bottles can roll into the water, especially if inadvertently knocked. Tie them to something or place them in a secure pocket on the rock. And if they're <90% full they'll probably float.
- Packs can roll too! And they probably won't float. Set them down parallel to the fall line.
- Wave action can drag an unattended paddleboard off shore and send it adrift. Keep an eye on it while organizing/loading gear or leash it to something.
- So can a dog! If your animal companion gets overly anxious to be on the water, keep them away from the board until it's time to shove off.
- The rock surface at or just under the water level can be slimy and slippery! It's probably best to avoid stepping on any rock covered in moss or algae.
- Getting of a paddleboard without being able to step down into the water can be very ungraceful. Strap gear securely to the board so it stays there if the board leans or tips.
And remember, there is no shame in relying on a friend to help balance the board when launching from the sloping slickrock banks.
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| Lake Canyon's inviting south fork |
Lake Canyon and its fingers
Once of the water, there are canyons to explore in all directions. The canyon opposite the put-in is the narrowest and may be the most intriguing. It is the South Fork of Lake Canyon and it is not to be missed! It winds up to 0.8 miles southward before ending at a headwall. The short and very sweet south fork bundles several of Lake Powell's most exotic features into a nice, compact package.
The South Fork's serpentine course is graced by warm sandstone walls, concave overhangs, and alternating pockets of sun and shade. There is even a ghostly grove of drowned trees at the head of the canyon and a small beach, depending on water level. The narrowness of the south fork protects it from wind so it frequently holds glassy waters. The South Fork alone is payoff for the effort it takes to hike down into the canyon.
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| Glass |
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| Side canyon |
From the put-in at the South Fork confluence, Lake Canyon proper can be explored eastward (up-canyon) or westward (down-canyon). Both directions have broader meanders than the south fork and longer paddling distances to see around successive corners. The main stem of Lake Canyon also sees more motorboat traffic.
Eastward, Lake Canyon continues another mile or so to its end, depending on water level. There are a couple relaxing beaches along the way and a short spur on the north (left) that ends in a narrow slot. The stream inlet at the east end of Lake Canyon will probably be weedy if Powell's water level is rising and mucky if it is falling. It is probably more fun to turn around when the water gets shallow rather than persevere all the way to the end.
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| Adventuring up Lake Canyon |
To the west, there are 1.8 miles of gradually widening canyon before the confluence with the main channel of the Colorado River. The first 0.8 miles of this stretch are the most interesting. The canyon crosses through an area of more fractured sandstone, and the descending fins and fissures create an erratic shoreline. This area is also where the North Wash flows into the lake. If the head of the inlet isn't too mucky, the North Wash can be explored on foot.
Water level considerations
The photos in this post correspond to a water surface elevation of 3573. Most of the descriptions are likely applicable for a range of at least 3565 to 3585. The most significant changes at a higher water level would be the location of a feasible launch and the lengths of the side canyons. Even though this range is more than 100 feet below Lake Powell's full pool elevation, the water level has stayed mostly below 3600 in recent years. In fact the pre-runoff drawdown in April 2023 brought the water level down to 3520, low enough to practically drain Lake Canyon's South Fork.
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| Lake Canyon, April 2023: Water Elev 3520 [imagery: apps.sentinel-hub.com] |
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| Lake Canyon, June 2011: Water Elev 3640 [imagery: USDA/FPCA/GEO from Google Earth] |
The U.S. Bureau of Reclamation projects the water level to generally remain in the 3560 to 3590 range for at least the next couple years. Current water levels can be found at https://lakepowell.water-data.com/, and regularly updated satellite imagery can be viewed on sentinel playground (medium resolution). The imagery on google maps is higher resolution but doesn't necessarily reflect current lake limits. Non-slickrock shore areas will likely be mucky in September and October when the water level is dropping, less so in May and June when it is rising.
Lake Powell's desert climate and low elevation make it a suitable destination in multiple seasons. September and October have the advantage of reduced boat traffic and water temperatures that are still somewhat mild. July and August see water temperatures that approach 80 degrees and air temperatures that routinely hit triple digits, along with elevated chances of strong afternoon thunderstorms. The summer months and holiday weeks are also the busiest for boat traffic and lakeside camping. There are far fewer visitors in April or May, but the water is quite chilly.
Mornings are by far the best time of day to be on the water--the earlier, the better. When boat traffic picks up, glassy waters can quickly turn to chop. Afternoons also bring the threat of approaching thunderstorms, which aren't visible from inside the canyons. Powerful, dangerous winds frequently accompany storms and it's best to be off the water before they hit. Check the hourly forecast and text discussion for the best weather window, and plan accordingly.
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| View down-canyon from confluence |
Trip logistics and preparation
The wild and remote nature of a Lake Canyon paddleboard adventure gives heightened importance to trip planning and preparation. Below is a list of tips for a safe and successful outing:
- Take time to study the area's topography ahead of time. Have a general idea where the side drainages drop into the canyon and where stratum changes are.
- Take screenshots of the area's satellite imagery and store them on your phone. Zoom in far enough to see the fins, fissures and scale of their shadows. The aerial imagery is probably the most useful tool to navigating this type of terrain.
- Keep a contour map on hand. This can be the Trails Illustated paper map for Glen Canyon NRA, a screenshot of the Halls Crossing USGS quad, or screenshot of the area on Google maps with "terrain" toggled on.
- Check the current shoreline limits on sentinelhub playground. Be sure to set the calendar to a recent date with unclouded imagery. Up-to-date water surface elevations can be found at water-data.com
- A 2-blade kayak setup and/or spare paddle is highly recommended.
- Don't forget to bring a pump! A manual pump is probably a little more fail-safe than an electric one, but make sure it's in good working order and leak-free beforehand.
- If you bring an electric pump and battery, ensure that the battery has sufficient health to get to full inflation, or bring a back-up if your batteries are older. And triple check that the valve is closed before inflating!
- Have a fully charged cellphone before starting, and maybe a battery. Check that location tracking or find-my-phone is on.
- There is cell reception on the flats between the park boundary and Halls Crossing, but service breaks up below the canyon rim. It's still not a bad idea to send periodic, time-stamped text updates to any interested party on the outside because the messages can send off if you pass through a good ray of cell transmission.
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| South fork |
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| Ripple reflections |
Unfortunately, Lake Powell is the epicenter of the invasive mussel crisis in the American Southwest. The lake has been infested with non-native quagga mussels for many years and remnants of the dime-sized mussels can be found on the canyon walls below the high-water mark. The state of Utah requires watercraft inspection at an inspection station, or self-certification if no open inspection stations are passed en route to the destination waters. An inspection or self-certify form is required for non-motorized vessels such as paddleboards or kayaks, in addition to motorboats. The second topic of the state's non-resident boating FAQ gives a brief overview of policies for non-motorized craft.
The most critical responsibility that comes after paddling on Lake Powell is to ensure that your watercraft is free of aquatic hitchhikers. Upon exiting the water, follow the Clean-Drain-Dry protocols that are detailed on the Utah AIS website: https://stdofthesea.utah.gov/. Fortunately for paddleboards, wiping down and drying out equipment is a quick process that doubles as an important component of product care anyway. But it's also important to ensure that no lake water, mud or other organic material is inadvertently transported on any other gear.
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| Twisting sandstone canyons |
Lake Powell safety
As mentioned above, there are plenty of hazards present in and around Lake Canyon. Beyond the typical paddleboarding safety practices, here are some additional precautions that are warranted when on Lake Powell:
- Wakes from passing motorboats can be a real hazard. Get low on the board and orient the nose 90 degrees to the approaching wake.
- Even small wakes can rebound back and forth for several minutes in narrow canyons.
- The main channel of the Colorado River can see a lot of boat traffic. It can also be difficult to be seen from larger watercraft. Take extra care if venturing into the main channel and avoid busy times.
- Storms on the lake can be epic and dangerous, particularly on summer afternoons. Start early!
- Lake Powell is a good place to use a leash. Getting separated from your watercraft can be a lot of trouble.
- Many parts of the lake have have significant distances of steep canyon walls that prevent escape off of the water. Make mental notes of the nearest landing spot in case of a problem.
- Pull paddleboards or kayaks securely on the shore if exploring on land. Waves are notorious for knocking them loose and sending them adrift.
- Moss and slime thrive at the water's edge and they are very slippery!
- Beware of gear rolling into the water from sloped surfaces.
- Rattlesnakes and scorpions live in the Utah desert. They shy away from people but stay aware!
- It can be a real challenge boarding a watercraft from slippery or sloping surfaces. There is no shame is using a paddle or a friend to aid in balance.
- As always, wear a PFD and secure one to your four-legged friends as well.
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| Rey SkyRocker doesn't mind a little sand |
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| Finger canyon ends in a narrow slot |
With thoughtful planning, good weather and responsible decisionmaking, a Powell alcove such as Lake Canyon can be a sublime adventure. On the flipside, It also has countless ways to turn catastrophic. If you decide to embark on this adventure, assess your ambition carefully and take all preparations seriously,...and wear a PFD! Definitely notify someone of your plans and be ready to bail if warranted by unexpected setbacks. But most of all, wherever your path takes you, have fun and enjoy the splendor of this amazing corner of Planet Earth.
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